Following on from my previous blog describing my summer time run up Pinnacle Ridge… I recently revisited this route in the winter conditions we all have experienced. Having my car permanently packed and ready to go with all my running and climbing kit ensures I get constant earache from the wife. But this means as soon as the weather is perfect for winter climbing I can head straight to mountains. Armed with new running and climbing gear, An Ice Axe from “Singing Rock” and my “Salomon Agile” Running pack, I can ensure I stay as light as possible but also have enough kit in-case things turn bad. I have converted the pack to be Ice Axe compatible with a add on elastic draw string and utilising the waist belt as the axe holder, this keeps it secure and easy to access.
Salomon Agile with Ice Axe attached and Berghaus Gloves (Pack containing Hat, Rab warm jacket, Head Torch, Map, Compass, Water, Food and Emergency Phone)
In addition to this I was also trying out for the first time, the “Salomon Spike Cross 3” running shoe, I have been looking for a lightweight set of crampons which would allow me to run in snowy and icy conditions but this was difficult, I decided to go for a lightweight shoe with any extra grip and Salomon were the only provider to do a product matching these desirables, The Spike Cross is light but gives the desired grip.
Running shoes used on route…
The metal studs are very grippy and perfect for any slippy conditions with the transition from snow to ice and then back to trail being very slick, the shoes tread combination adapts seamlessly to each condition. I set off on the route like a excited child and as i got nearer to the lakes my apprehension was replaced with excitement as i started to the see the snowy peaks pop out from the clouds. I knew I was in for a perfect day of running and climbing. Pulling up in Patterdale I immediately bumped into Marion Parsons, a local legend who has completed many routes in the Alps and also some UK based climbing and ultrarunning events… I got some local knowledge on the conditions and I set off.
The run out of Patterdale is always a good warm up as the roads lead up into the Grisedale Valley… The higher I got the faster I ran as the snow was becoming closer, looking up the trails either side of the valley I could see little sign of anyone being present and this is sometimes how I like it. Its part of the reason I’m attracted to the more challenging routes – the sense of being alone and in a dangerous situation armed only with your skills to ensure you get out in one piece. Many people ask me why i do events that are challenging or routes that some say are dangerous, and ive myself thought over this long and hard. My transition from the Army to civilian life was a little bit more harder then i sometimes let on and i found that i missed the excitement that came with planning and deploying on highly specialised missions, the feeling of taken on a tough task and then coming through it unscathed and successful was an addiction i didn’t realise i had. Once i identified that i needed this the only options available to me were to join back up or get into something that would give me the same sense of excitement again as this made me who i was as a person, this for me now is Mountain running / Ultrarunning, Mountaineering and Climbing, and where possible i really like the idea of the 3 disciplines being mixed into one long day out. As i approached the base of the route and the long climb up leading to the actual technical sections of the route, I could hear in the distance the echo of climbers communicating and the tap of a ice axe… The footprints in the snow told me a group of about 3 to 4 were on the route. I set off at a run to make sure I caught them up and set myself the target to be first up the route.
At the base of the climbing section looking up towards Grisedale Tarn and Nethermost Pike / Cove…
My legs and lungs were screaming as I settled into my methodical mountain running style, small and sharp steps in time with my breathing. This becomes an monotonous rhythm before long and you block out the worlds problems and just get down to what I see as the most basic form of human movement, running. I was across the scree slopes fairly quickly and found the snow covering the rocks helping me to run over them more efficiently. The ice axe was out now and I was climbing fast and up into the first rock sections. The snow covering the rocks seemed to hide the handholds but I discovered my momentum enabled be to glide over these sections, which in summer months are easy jug holds, a few slips here and there was quickly stopped by the axe and onwards and upwards towards the distant voices I climbed.
The easy section before the climbing…
Start of the good stuff…
Now onto the climbing sections I caught up with a group of 4 who were all roped up with the relevant safety equipment… This always gives my confidence a knock as I second guess myself and start to think maybe I’m climbing too light. But once committed I find any negative thoughts will always result in serious injury, so block them out and climb on I tell myself. I was up past them before I knew it and then onto the untouched snow and ice of the route, I definitely feel addicted to the sensation you get when you know its only you that has been on a route and the sense of going into “uncharted waters” as such, its the feel of adventure and excitement it gives me and the little fear it creates. I was just focused on climbing safe but fast and before long I was high above the group and looking back down on them… It was a nice feeling to see them following my route in the snow and over the rocks, I hoped the reassurance it gave them was needed.
Looking down on the group of 4 climbers…
Moving fast I was soon approaching the crux (the most difficult section of a climbing route) and begun my mental preparation as in winter conditions it may be a little harder then usual. I easily climb this in the summer as the section gives 2 options -, the “corner” and the “crack” the latter being more challenging.
The Crux – Showing the Corner option on the right and Crack up the centre, The wider crack is where the fall occurred…
Ideally as it was my first winter ascent I should of opted for the tried and tested corner option but me being me I decided to push myself and go for the crack. Without pausing for thought I attacked the crack without stopping for breath and jammed the ice axe in and pulled, relying on strength more then not technique… this being my first mistake, I pulled and pushed and the grip on the shoes dug in well, scraping away snow I could see the holds needed to reach the top ledge. Once I was 2/3’s of the way up the crack it then opens out and I found jamming the ice axe into this a little difficult. Once in I twisted it slightly and felt it bite, I pulled hard and then felt for a foot hold and attempted to bring my right hand up and around to reach the ledge to finish the move… Then a scrape of metal on rock and a loud shout of “s@*t” and I was falling backwards. It isn’t a long fall but i had enough time to think of the gully which is off to the left of this section and i screamed at myself to come up with a plan. if I fell in that direction with no plan then id more then likely continue this fall a couple of hundred feet to the bottom. Luckily enough for me I hit the ledge and rolled but unluckily for me was I twisted my left ankle and the pain shot up through my leg. Initially thinking it was a break I settled myself down and relaxed, laying in the snow I calmed myself and hatched a plan of action, I could feel the ankle tighten with swelling but I still had mobility in the joint. Having broke my ankles a few times I knew the worst thing that someone could do was to sit still and let the swelling take hold, I had to get it moving quick even though it hurt. I set off climbing and decided to work a route around the crux, limping and climbing is hard work but I was soon onto the last sections of climbing, this section is where I feel its the hardest – as you can see the huge drops either side if the knife edge ridge and the huge exposure that comes with it. The last few moves were covered in snow and gusts of wind hit buffeted me, It felt very intimidating. I felt a slight smile spread across my face, “I’m in a sticky spot and injured with no way out unless I climb it”… This is what I was searching for… I climbed and soon I was past it and onto the last snow slope upto the summit.
“Summit Selfie” but in pain…
I had to cut short the planned climbing for the rest of the day as I was intending on crossing the valley and trying a route up Nethermost Cove to Striding Edge and along to Hellvelyn,but this will have to wait until another day maybe. The route was fun yet challenging but I would highly recommend this to anyone to try in the summer as its very climbable, but in the winter maybe pair up incase of a fall.
Pinnacle Ridge Snow Covered…
Hope you enjoy the route and wish you all a “Happy New Year” and all the best for 2015… Maybe set this route for a challenge this coming year, Feel free to contact me if you want any route notes or advice.
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